A Holiday in England (Part 3: London)

We arrived in London a bit late a took a while figuring out where the hotel was. Finally we found it thanks to the help of several kind Englishmen and were greeted by a kind Indian man with a thick accent. We had a cup of tea and went to bed so we could get up early the next day to see London. We managed the transportation system much better in the morning. It took a bus, train, and the underground to get to downtown London. Making our way down Regent Street we were greeted with all the festivities of a Saturday before Christmas (yes all the shops were already decorated for Christmas!) Part of the street was blocked off for an old car show. The owners and their families were dressed up in turn of the century costumes and sat in their "horseless carriages." Some even had babies or dogs with them who were dressed up as well. You could see the excitement of the old men talking about and showing their prized cars. I kept hoping to meet Chitty Chitty Bang Bang! But instead I met one car from Wisconsin and on from Illinois in addition to all the English cars. We continued walking the streets all morning and by mid-day were in the Covet Garden's Market. It felt like a holiday with kids and their parents, red balloons on their wrists, and music playing. There was a street performer riding an eight foot unicycle and live statues. We found a small restaurant and bought hot pies for lunch. I a chicken and bacon pie and Lizzy a steak and ale pie. We sat at the food of a pillar and ate our pies while listening to a man playing music on the street and watching the people hurry by.

After lunch we walked to look at the famous parts of the city, the giant lions, Big Ben, parliament, Buckingham palace, St. Peter's Park, and finally Westminster Abbey. We made it just in time to attend the evensong service. The service was wonderful. We sat in the cross section between the choir and the head of the abbey. it was such a worshipful experience to join in the words of the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles Creed, to listen and meditate upon the psalms the choir sand and listen to the Word of God being read in a way that thousands of Christians had done before me. I was worshiping God in a place where he had been revered for ages ("God of the ages past our hope for years to come...")

After the service we went back to the hotel to get dressed up for . . . . . LES MESERABLES in the Queen's Theatre!!! I was bursting with excitement as we made our way to the theater and took our seats in is. I will not even attempt to tell you of the pleasure in hearing it live- if you've been you know- if you have hard the music you can understand-and if you have had the terrible fortune of never having hear the music I cannot possible describe it to you. I relished every not and let my tears fall freely at the end--"to love another person is to see the face of God!" It was a perfect last night in London and in England.

A Holiday in England (Part 2: Chester)

Tuesday morning we took a walk in search of some lunch for our bus rides. The stores were closed so we ended up walked all the way to the next town along the River Avon. It was beautiful fall weather and our brisk walk was perfectly accompanied by the crisp breeze.

A slow drizzle greeted us as we exited the coach but no Gabi or Mrs. Dickinson. A few minutes later we discovered we hadn't talked about where to meet up! After standing in the rain for over an hour and deliberating we decided to get a taxi. We got a taxi and it pulled into a group of houses and then the taxi driver said "wait a minute I don't think this is the correct address but I don't know where the correct house is." I decided to get out and try house #9 just to check- sure enough it wasn't the Dickinson's. Getting back into the cab I, out of ideas, said we should just go to a hotel. Then the cab driver decided he might know where it was. Finally we found the house!

Mrs. Dickinson ran down the stairs to greet us and we entered the warm home. She immediately sat us down and put cups of hot tea in our hands and offered us cake. It was the quintessential English home. She heated us some chive and potato soup for dinner and we settled in at once. I was able to put my feet up on the sofa wearing only socks and relax- such a refreshment after Spain!

Mrs. Dickinson went to bed fairly soon, but not before offering us hot water bottles. The old fashioned rubber kind that hold hot water and heat your toes! I exclaimed that I had only seen them in Peter Pan and she showed us how to used them. I stayed up until 1:15 talking with Gabi and Lizzy about Uganda. My bedroom was at the top of a windy staircase and was warm and cozy.

Wednesday I awoke early with the light of the morning and pulled back the curtains to see the word I had entered in darkness. My face must have lit up with a smile because all the confusion of the night slipped away as I took in the English countryside painted with the colors of fall. We were on a wharf and the water was shimmery in the sunlight. There was a constant flow of tea our entire stay at the Dickinson's. After we were all ready for the day we loaded up in the car to a barn filled with books. Gabi was feeling a bit car-sick so we stopped and took a stroll down the lane. So beautiful, I cannot capture natures beauty and really there is no need since the poets have already done it. Sufficient to say that my spirit was refreshed and my soul nourished.

The book barn was stuffed to the gill with books. Top to bottom far and wide used books of every topic. We spent a good amount of time looking at all the books and laughing at our love for all the children's books we saw. We stopped in a craft store just for a peaking before heading home.

We had cheese on toast for lunch. This was Mrs. Dickinson's response to my request for a "typical English lunch." I was so happy and comfortable sitting at the kitchen table sipping tea and talking with her as she prepared lunch. After lunch Lizzy worked on a project she had to finish for school so I sat and chatted with Mrs. Dickinson. Knowing our love for books she pulled out some old books she said she was saving for her children. Around 4:00 Lizzy and I decided to go for a walk on the footpath along the wharf. It got dark around 5:00 there so we set out hoping for enough daylight. Our "tramp" as Lizzy called it was lovely. It was muddy and a bit breezy but refreshing. We walked and talked and enjoyed the nature. We came to and old bridge and climbed upon it before turning around to head back. We came in quite dirty and rosy cheeked.

Mrs. Dickinson made jacket potatoes (baked potatoes) with tuna and salad for dinner. It wasn't an extraordinary dinner but the ordinary-ness of it made it special. We talked and lingered, enjoying tea and cake afterwards. Sadly I don't remember what we did after dinner but I do remember that before bed Mrs. Dickinson gave me a hug, a kiss on the cheek and wished me, "Goodnight and God bless." I went to sleep full. 

Thursday, our final day in Chester, Gabi took Lizzy and I into the town of Chester since they live out of town in Waverton. She took us for our first Marks & Spencer experience where we bought Turkish Delight and hot-crossed buns for our afternoon tea. We walked around Chester visiting the stories and trying on pretty things. For dinner that night we had fish and chips! Upon request Mrs. Dickinson's gave us a detailed description of what makes the best fish and chips. Ask me about it; I'll be happy to share!

That day I was wearing my hair in a French braid and Mrs. Dickinson asked me to show her how to make one. So after dinner we had a plait party! (Plait being the British word for braid.) She was a fast learner- after two tries she was better than I, making a completely successful crown braid on my head. I told her how Jennifer used to give me crown plaits for Easter and put baby's breath in it. Oh happy memories! 

The following morning we had to leave but not before stopping to thank God for our time together and praying for one another. Lizzy and I were both terribly sad to be leaving Chester, and the generosity and kindness of the Dickinson's.

A Holiday in England (Part 1: Bath)

Bath, England

Monday, November 1,2010

I took the 23:00 bus from Sevilla and arrived in Madrid at 4:30 where I took a Ryanair flight to London-Gatwick. From London-Gatwick I took a train to London Victoria Railway Station. I was finally relaxed and uplifted by nature's beauty on the bus ride. It is fall, I did not miss it after all! The trees branches are impregnated with vivid yellows, oranges, and reds, the grass is green, the air crisp, and the houses cozy. I had barely sat down in Victoria Coach Sation when I hear my name being called “Caroline Belle!” by my dear friend Elisabeth Wagner. We took a coach to Bath and found the YMCA without too much trouble where we had pastrami sandwiches and clementines thanks to Isabel (my señora).  

 

We woke up at 8:30 and looked out our window to see a beautiful view of the Bath's rooftops. Pointed red topped roofs and the cathedral's spire were the sites my eyes feasted upon. We set forth, I as the map-holder/direction giver and her as the beauty exclaimer. 

 

We wound our way to the Royal Victoria Park with our biggest obstacles being walking on the correct side of the road and looking the correct direction when crossing the street. We happened upon the Royal Crescent and I do mean “happened upon.” I had always assumed it was in the middle of the city, big and bustling (an assumption from the movies) but it isn't— it is facing the park with a large green lawn. It is massive but not busy, other than some parked cars you have almost no reminders that you are in the 21^st and not the 18^th century. We found a bench to sit on that was inscribed “Ruby and George Shearn First Met Here— the dawn of their love and life together.” It was a perfect spot nestled under a yellow tree to sit and observe the mother's walking by with their children and the men playing with their dogs. Finally we forced ourselves up from the spot to go observe more closely the Royal Crescent buildings which were completely beautiful and wonderful.

We continued on in search of the Fashion Museum and Assembly Rooms. On our way we decided to go down a side street to see some of the shops. I was overtaken by the window display of a little book shop and as I was oohing and aahing over the vintage children's books an older British lady said to Lizzy and I “you must go in its a treasure trove” and walked on. So we did. We walked in and were greeted by a middle aged man. He was very kind and offered to help, pull anything out of the cases, etc., etc. I was in heaven old books of every sort, children's, history, poetry, religion. I found a 4^th edition copy of Little Lord Fauntleroy from 1888! I decided to buy it for 12 pounds and give it to Laura since it was the first story we every cried at. I had to pry myself from the store because I could have bought every book in the place. The lady could not have been more accurate when describing the store as a treasure trove. It was a most delightful detour.

The Assembly Rooms and Fashion Museum were very close by. We first walked through the Assembly Rooms which were beautiful, I wanted to dance the 18^th century dances and drink tea while wearing a long gown with gloves. The decoration was beautiful and intricate and the chandeliers gigantic. Next the Fashion Museum. Modern dress was first from 2005-1970's which wasn't that fascinating but soon came the 18^th century dress which was wonderful. Lizzy and I both tried on corsets with hoops skirts. We agreed that they made us feel instantly three inches taller, hough I didn't care for the incredibly accentuated bust and difficulty in breathing. Continuing on to all the dresses we marveled at the hand made dresses with embroidery, ruffles, and lace. There were receipts with prices for undergarments and gloves, shoes, capes, hats, on and on. It was beautiful and exhausting to think of dressing during those times. We were also able to see a collection of Princess Diana's dresses.

After the Fashion Museum it was time to go to back to the hostel to grab a few things for lunch. With the rest of the bread and meat in hand we headed off to the Guildhall Market to buy things for a proper picnic. After taking in all the sights, smells, and signs we decided to buy figs and satsumas. I asked the lady at the produce stand for help with the figs as I had never bought them before. She was so obliging, she showed me the proper color and texture and then had me try to find some myself, as any excellent teacher would do! Then I asked for an explanation of a satsuma, having never heard of one before. She lost herself in describing the minutia of their special fruit not as tart as a tangerine but not as juicy sweet as a clementine. When she was through she said, “listen to me making much of muchness.” Ah! The expression pulled right from Lewis Carrol and said with such ease. In addition the the fruits (packed in brown bags) we bought a small wedge of smoked cheddar cheese and French Brie from “Nibbles Cheeses.”

The perfect picnic spot was found as we stood on Pulteney Bridge and beheld the beauties of the English hills during fall. Along the River Avon there were picnic tables and waking paths where we had our lunch. Our food couldn't have been better. The smoked cheddar was strong but not harsh, the flavor intense but the texture smooth and thick. It coated your through and left its richness lingering on your taste-buds. The fruit seller's description of the satsumas was spot on and they were wonderful. Our desert of figs and Brie- heaven. Why had I always eaten Brie baked? Its texture is so much better fresh. It is light but creamy and fresh. The figs, which I had never tried fresh before won me over in seconds. They taste of warmth, as if you can taste the life it took from the tree, the sap that nourish it and made it plump. Can all this be contained in a mere fruit? Oh it can.

Our bellies full and senses teeming we pulled ourselves from the riverside and continued on to the Roman Baths. Everyone we talked to impressed upon us the necessity of allowing sufficient time for the Baths but I couldn't imagine what could take so long. They were right, we spent every last moment up until closing admiring and learning about the baths. So much history! For once in my life I was thankful for and loving the audio guides.

Dinner was on the docket after the baths since it was 17:30 and we decided upon a Thai restaurant. Lizzy ordered Tom Ka soup- so deliciously warm and complex with coconut milk and a bit of heat. I order Vietnamese rolls with roasted duck, carrot, cucumber, basil, coriander, etc. wrapped in rice sheets with a spicy dipping sauce. Oh how happy was my mouth and stomach after eating such delights! Thankfully Lizzy reminded me of tipping which I had quite forgotten about after being in Spain.

I was sad to only have one day in Bath but we did have tickets to go to Chester the next morning so off we must go. 

Chocolate Chip Cookies

One evening as I was walking home with my roommates we had a chocolate chip cookie craving. I to bake and they to eat. We decided to make some so we stopped by Más (the grocery store around the corner) and bought a Milka chocolate bar to use as the chocolate chips.  As we walked in the door to ask Isabel if we could use the kitchen we hear the grandkids playing. In the living room I found not only Ana and Juanito were over but both their parents as well. I decided to wait to ask Isabel and instead looked up the recipe to convert into Metric measurements/Celsius temperature.  This task completed I proceeded to the kitchen to see if Isabel had all the ingredients. She had everything except

1. Baking Soda: She only had baking powder and said that is all there is here in Spain, so I just put 2x as much in and its seemed to be okay.
2. Brown Sugar: Guate had prepared me for this one. Instead of b.sugar there is a strange dark sugar I can't even describe. I settled for this as well.
3. Vanilla: Much to my dismay there is no liquid vanilla extract as we know it here in Spain. They use a powdered or sugared vanilla made with artificial vanilla flavor! Yes, I ran to several stores to double check and called someone from the school to triple check. 'Tis the sad, sad truth.  

I feel compelled to take this moment to tell you about the different ideas about food going bad here. Meat is left out on counters, fruit eaten mushy and brown, mold simply "cut out" of things such as cheese, butter, or jelly and still used! "What you don't know can't hurt you" has gained a whole new meaning for me!
But back to the cookies. The family left for the park so I began to mix up the batter without any measuring cups or spoons (Julia Child would not approve) and with Isabel at my side watching and fussing. She wanted me to bake them in the little convection oven and turned it on herself. After the first batch was in for about 3 minutes I smelt burning cookies. I ran to the oven only to see she had set the cookies at the top of the confection oven set to 200 degrees C and only heating from the top!
By this time the family had returned and we were all crammed in the tiny kitchen. The oldest son was laughing saying we needed to call the bomberos, firefighters, to which the daughter replied with the "universal firefighter sound." Finally things were calmed down, I adjusted the oven to my liking when no one was looking and made the rest of the batter into blondies.
My roommates were extremely kind assuring me they tasted wonderful and, considering the long journey and many hardships they face, really they weren't all that bad. Chocolate chip cookies- not as easy as 1-2-3 in Spain!

Last Bit of Summer

This week was my most “Spanish” week thus far. I feel I am finally getting a handle on the city, the customs, and the language- hooray! My week started off with tapas and ended with tapas. On the bus back from Lagos two weekends ago my friend Katie and I met a Quebecois who was coming to Sevilla for a few days. We met up with him on Tuesday for Tapas. We had a great time walking around the Barrio Santa Cruz looking for a restaurant and finally choosing one with a nice patio. Sevilla is so beautiful at night with everything lit up and street musicians playing. Although we were originally looking for a tapas place we ended up eating at a restaurant, which was nice anyways.
Friday was a friend's birthday so Margo, Amber and I decided to take her out for tapas! Sara, the student ministries coordinator here, recommended we go to Taverna Coloniales and she was spot-on! We got there around 9:20 (early for dinner Sevillana time) and it was already packed. I was elected the one to squeeze my way up to the bar to put our name on the list for a table. We ended up only having to wait about thirty minutes before being seated. We sat on the third floor of this beautiful tapas bar. The tables were all marble (a cheap material here!) and the walls were warm yellows and oranges. Our waiter was a friendly young Spaniard who told us all the specials and looked shocked when we all ordered water instead of wine or sangria. We decided to order 2 tapas each and then share them all and we picked an excellent assortment! A shrimp tortilla (which is not like the American tortialla at all), fried cuttle fish, almond chicken, potatoes with marinara, sirloin with Roquefort sauce, spinach croquets, and a tostada (which in Spain is a large piece of fried bread with a sauce and cold meat on it.) I love tapas, it is the best way to get to taste a lot of different foods for a great price. For all our food we only paid 26 euros! We had a trendy American dessert at a place nearby called “Yogurtlandia.” Ha! Love it!
After tapas we decided to go look for a bar /museum which we heard has free flamenco. After much wandering we found “the red door” ! The building was stone and piano music was playing as we entered. There were photographs on the walls, wooden benches for sitting, and a lot of people. In a side room people were packed in around a little stage where one man played the guitar, one sang, and the lady danced. It was beautiful to she her graceful arms and precise wrist movements. She stomped her feet and swirled her skirt to the melancholy tune. The audience clapped and moved along to the music, enveloped by the sounds. On our way out we bought hand made silk flowers for our hair so the next time we can go we can be Spanish :)
Saturday the school took us to Huelva which is the old city where Christopher Columbus set sail for the America's in 1492. We visited the monastery where he waited for seven years to hear back from the King and Queen. Afterwards we got to see the life size replica's of the Niña, the Pinta, and the Santa Maria (remember that from 1st grade with Mrs. Madden?) We were like kids climbing the ropes, dashing below deck, and causing general chaos. But how many times do you get to play on boats like that? They were much smaller than I would have thought, let me tell you I would not cross the Atlantic in a boat that size! The afternoon was spent relaxing on the beach, enjoying the last drop of summer air.